“To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it we...”
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“To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it we...”
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“I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.”
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“Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.”
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“I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.”
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“Besides surfing, I play tennis, volleyball, I swim, I run hills, or I do high-intensity, high-interval workouts. I'm up at 5 A.M. every day.”
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